Every day is leg day. That's what our free graffiti walking tour guide kept telling us as we climbed up and down impossibly steep stairs over a handful of the 23 cerros, or hills, that make up gritty Valparaiso. We learned about the vibrant street art culture that has engulfed the entire city; it was hard to find a building that wasn't covered in tags or murals. We spent three days wondering the streets finding new works around every corner.
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